第88章 改革服装
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第88章 改革服装
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Chap.88 - The Reform Dress
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在回复许多姐妹来信询问关于改良服装的适当长度时，我要说，在密歇根州我们这部分地区已采用了统一的长度，离地面约有9英寸。我趁此机会回复这些询问，为的是节省需要回复那么多信件的时间。我原应在早些时候发言，但要等候看到在《健康改良者》中对这个问题有所确定。我愿恳切地推荐统一的长度，也愿说九英寸差不多符合我能用英寸表示的对这个问题的见解。{1T 521.1}[1]
§4
In answer to letters of inquiry from many sisters relative to the proper length of the reform dress, I would say that in our part of the State of Michigan we have adopted the uniform length of about nine inches from the floor. I take this opportunity to answer these inquiries in order to save the time required to answer so many letters. I should have spoken before, but have waited to see something definite on this point in the Health Reformer. I would earnestly recommend uniformity in length, and would say that nine inches as nearly accords with my views of the matter as I am able to express it in inches.{1T 521.1}[1]
§5
当我旅行各地时，发现人们没有正确地描述改良服装，使我觉得应该说些更确定的事，好使大家在这事上可以统一行动。这种款式的服装是不流行的，因此采用这种服装的人应该整洁有品味。我已就这个问题发过言，可是有些人没能听从所给出的建议。在守安息日的人中，改良服装的长度应该统一。那些因采用这种服装而显得特殊的人，不应有片刻以为没有必要显出秩序，品味和整洁。我们的姐妹在穿上改良的服装之前，应该先有裤子和松短外衣与之同穿。一款在每个细节上都需改良的服装在能正确地代表改良服装之前，若是被人介绍到社会，就会对服装改良造成大害。姐妹们，要等待，直到你们能正确地穿着。{1T 521.2}[2]
§6
As I travel from place to place I find that the reform dress is not rightly represented, and am made to feel that something more definite should be said that there may be uniform action in this matter. This style of dress is unpopular, and for this reason neatness and taste should be exercised by those who adopt it. I have spoken once upon this point, yet some fail to follow the advice given. There should be uniformity as to the length of the reform dress among Sabbathkeepers. Those who make themselves peculiar by adopting this dress should not think for a moment that it is unnecessary to show order, taste, and neatness. Before putting on the reform dress, our sisters should obtain patterns of the pants and sack worn with it. It is a great injury to the dress reform to have persons introduce into a community a style which in every particular needs reforming before it can rightly represent the reform dress. Wait, sisters, till you can put the dress on right.{1T 521.2}[2]
§7
有些地区非常反对短装。然而当我看到姐妹们穿的某些服装时，就不奇怪人们会讨厌并谴责那种服装了。若是照所应该地着装，凡没有偏见的人都会被迫承认那是正派而方便的。在我们的一些教会中，我看到了各种各类的改良服装，可是没有一款符合我蒙指示看到的样式。有的人穿着细棉布白裤，白袖子，深色细毛料衣服和同样面料的无袖松短外衣。有些人穿着印花布衣服和照自己的时尚裁剪的裤子，不照“那式样”，没有上浆使之有形，紧贴在四肢上。这些款式的服装确实表现不出什么品味或档次。这样的服装不会表明穿着的人思想开明判断优良。怎么说那都是不成形的服装。{1T 521.3}[3]
§8
In some places there is great opposition to the short dress. But when I see some dresses worn by the sisters, I do not wonder that people are disgusted and condemn the dress. Where the dress is represented as it should be, all candid persons are constrained to admit that it is modest and convenient. In some of our churches I have seen all kinds of reform dresses, and yet not one answering the description presented before me. Some appear with white muslin pants, white sleeves, dark delaine dress, and a sleeveless sack of the same description as the dress. Some have a calico dress with pants cut after their own fashioning, not after the pattern, without starch or stiffening to give them form, and clinging close to the limbs. There is certainly nothing in these dresses manifesting taste or order. Such a dress would not recommend itself to the good judgment of sensible-minded persons. In every sense of the word it is a deformed dress.{1T 521.3}[3]
§9
遭到丈夫反对的姐妹问我，当她们采用短装与丈夫的心愿相反时有什么建议。我建议她们等待。我并不认为服装问题象安息日那么至关重要。关于安息日是不能有什么犹豫的。但是许多人遭到反对，可能是因为她们采纳的改良服装对健康害多益少。这些姐妹们有一些曾对我说：“我丈夫喜欢你的服装；他说他挑不出一点儿毛病。”这使我看到我们的姐妹正确代表服装改良的必要性，要在着装上表现出整洁，有序，一致。我将在旅行时随身带着预备好的款式，随时准备交给要遇见的我们的姐妹，或邮寄给凡可能订购它们的人。还将在《评论》上发布我们的服装。{1T 522.1}[4]
§10
Sisters who have opposing husbands have asked my advice in regard to their adopting the short dress contrary to the wishes of the husband. I advise them to wait. I do not consider the dress question of so vital importance as the Sabbath. Concerning the latter there can be no hesitation. But the opposition which many might receive should they adopt the dress reform would be more injurious to health than the dress would be beneficial. Several of these sisters have said to me: My husband likes your dress; he says he has not one word of fault to find with it. This has led me to see the necessity of our sisters representing the dress reform aright, by manifesting neatness, order, and uniformity in dress. I shall have patterns prepared to take with me as we travel, ready to hand to our sisters whom we shall meet, or to send by mail to all who may order them. Our address will be given in the Review.{1T 522.1}[4]
§11
那些采用短装的人应该在选色上表现出品味。那些不能买新布料的人必须尽自己所能的，在修改旧衣服上运用品味和独创性，将它们翻新。特别要使裤子的颜色和布料与衣服的一样，否则你们就会显得怪诞了。可将旧衣服照正确的款式裁剪，有品味地予以修改，使之看起来象新的一样。姐妹们，我请求你们不要照你们自己的特殊想法做你们的裤子。在有正确款式和良好品味的地方，也有不正确的款式和卑劣的品味。{1T 522.2}[5]
§12
Those who adopt the short dress should manifest taste in the selection of colors. Those who are unable to buy new cloth must do the best they can to exercise taste and ingenuity in fixing over old garments, making them new again. Be particular to have the pants and dress of the same color and material, or you will appear fantastic. Old garments may be cut after a correct pattern and arranged tastefully, and appear like new. I beg of you, sisters, not to form your patterns after your own particular ideas. While there are correct patterns and good tastes, there are also incorrect patterns and bad tastes.{1T 522.2}[5]
§13
这种服装不需要撑裙箍，我希望决不要用撑裙箍使这种服装有失体面。我们的姐妹不必穿很多裙子为使衣服扩张开。有一到两件轻便的裙子自然下垂在身体周围看起来会更得体。对于外面穿的裤子，波纹织物是极好的布料；它既有挺度又耐穿。裙子里面若要穿什么，就要穿很小件的。加棉是不必要的。可是我常看到人们穿加棉的裙，有时还在衣服下面坠上一道。这使它看起来不庄重，不整洁。白裙子和深色的衣服一起穿就短装来说是不合适的。特别要使你们的裙子干净、整洁而正派；要用上等的布料作裙子，在所有情况下，裙子都至少要比衣服短三英寸。若要穿什么使裙子扩展开的东西，就要穿小件的，并且至少距离衣服或外裙的底部四分之一码或二分之一码。如果把绳子或起类似作用的东西直接放在裙子底部的周围，它仅仅扩张裙子的底部，当穿用者坐着或弯腰时，就显得很不得体了。{1T 523.1}[6]
§14
This dress does not require hoops, and I hope that it will never be disgraced by them. Our sisters need not wear many skirts to distend the dress. It appears much more becoming falling about the form naturally over one or two light skirts. Moreen is excellent material for outside skirts; it retains its stiffness and is durable. If anything is worn in skirts, let it be very small. Quilts are unnecessary. Yet I frequently see them worn, and sometimes hanging a trifle below the dress. This gives it an immodest, untidy appearance. White skirts, worn with dark dresses, do not become the short dress. Be particular to have your skirts clean, neat, and nice; make them of good material and in all cases at least three inches shorter than the dress. If anything is worn to distend the skirt, let it be small and at least one quarter or one half a yard from the bottom of the dress or outside skirt. If a cord, or anything answering the place of cords, is placed directly around the bottom of the skirt, it distends the dress merely at the bottom, making it appear very unbecoming when the wearer is sitting or stooping.{1T 523.1}[6]
§15
在我们旅行各地时，谁也不必担心我会使服装改良成为我的首要主题之一。那些在这事上听过我讲论的人，应该遵照所赐的亮光而行。我已尽了我的本分；作了我的见证，那些听过我的见证读过我所写证言的人，而今必须负起接受或拒绝所赐亮光的责任。他们若是选择做健忘的听众，并不实行这事，就是在冒险，并要为他们所采取的做法向上帝交账。我是无愧的。我不会督促任何人，也不会定任何人的罪。这并不是反对我的事。上帝知道祂谦卑，乐意，顺从的儿女，也必照他们忠心履行祂的旨意报赏他们。对许多人来说，服装改良太简朴太丢脸了，不能予以采用。他们不能举起十字架。上帝用简单的方法作事，要把祂儿女与世人分别出来，使他们与众不同；但有些人已远远偏离了上帝的作为和道路的简朴性，他们不屑于这工作，不在这工作之中。{1T 523.2}[7]
§16
None need fear that I shall make dress reform one of my principal subjects as we travel from place to place. Those who have heard me upon this matter will have to act upon the light that has already been given. I have done my duty; I have borne my testimony, and those who have heard me and read that which I have written must now bear the responsibility of receiving or rejecting the light given. If they choose to venture to be forgetful hearers, and not doers of the work, they run their own risk and will be accountable to God for the course they pursue. I am clear. I shall urge none and condemn none. This is not the work assigned me. God knows His humble, willing, obedient children and will reward them according to their faithful performance of His will. To many the dress reform is too simple and humbling to be adopted. They cannot lift the cross. God works by simple means to separate and distinguish His children from the world; but some have so departed from the simplicity of the work and ways of God that they are above the work, not in it.{1T 523.2}[7]
§17
我蒙指示看到《民数记》15:38-41：“你吩咐以色列人，叫他们世世代代在衣服边上做繸子，又在底边的繸子上钉一根蓝细带子。你们佩带这繸子，好叫你们看见就记念遵行耶和华一切的命令，不随从自己的心意、眼目行邪淫，象你们素常一样；使你们记念遵行我一切的命令，成为圣洁，归与你们的上帝。我是耶和华你们的上帝，曾把你们从埃及地领出来，要作你们的上帝。我是耶和华你们的上帝。”上帝在这里下了明确的命令，对以色列人的服装作了非常简单的安排，把他们与周围拜偶像的民族区别开来。当他们看到自己服装和特征时，就记起他们是上帝守诫命的子民，祂曾以奇妙地方式把他们从埃及地为奴之家带出来，好侍奉祂，归祂作圣洁的子民。他们不可侍奉自己的愿望，也不可效法周围拜偶像的民族，而要保持作为一班独特的，分别出来的子民，好使凡看见他们的人都可以说：这些就是上帝从埃及地带出来的人，他们遵守十诫的律法。一个以色列人是这种一望便知的人，因为上帝藉着简单的方法把他区别出来做属祂的人。{1T 524.1}[8]
§18
I was referred to Numbers 15:38-41: Speak unto the children of Israel, and bid them that they make them fringes in the borders of their garments throughout their generations, and that they put upon the fringe of the borders a ribband of blue: and it shall be unto you for a fringe, that ye may look upon it, and remember all the commandments of the Lord, and do them; and that ye seek not after your own heart and your own eyes, after which ye use to go a whoring: that ye may remember, and do all My commandments, and be holy unto your God. I am the Lord your God, which brought you out of the land of Egypt, to be your God: I am the Lord your God. Here God expressly commanded a very simple arrangement of dress for the children of Israel for the purpose of distinguishing them from the idolatrous nations around them. As they looked upon their peculiarity of dress, they were to remember that they were Gods commandment-keeping people, and that He had wrought in a miraculous manner to bring them from Egyptian bondage to serve Him, to be a holy people unto Him. They were not to serve their own desires, or to imitate the idolatrous nations around them, but to remain a distinct, separate people, that all who looked upon them might say: These are they whom God brought out of the land of Egypt, who keep the law of Ten Commandments. An Israelite was known to be such as soon as seen, for God through simple means distinguished him as His.{1T 524.1}[8]
§19
上帝赐给以色列人要他们在衣服上钉一根蓝细带子的命令，对他们的健康没有任何直接的影响，只是因为上帝愿意他们因顺从而蒙福，而且那带子会使他们记住耶和华的高要求，防止他们与别的国民混杂，参加他们的醉宴，吃猪肉和有害健康的奢腻食物。上帝现在愿意祂的子民采用改良服装，不仅是要把他们同世人区别开来作祂“特殊的子民，”而且因为在服装上的改良对身心的健康来说是必要的。上帝的子民已在很大程度上丧失了他们的独特性，渐渐效法了世界，与他们混杂，直到他们在许多方面变得象他们一样了。这令上帝不悦。祂指示他们，象祂指示古时的以色列人一样，要从世界出来，离弃他们拜偶像的做法，不随从他们自己的心（因为他们的心不圣洁）或他们自己的眼目，因为他们自己的心与眼已带领他们离开上帝而与世界联合了。{1T 524.2}[9]
§20
The order given by God to the children of Israel to place a ribbon of blue in their garments was to have no direct influence on their health, only as God would bless them by obedience, and the ribbon would keep in their memory the high claims of Jehovah and prevent them from mingling with other nations, uniting in their drunken feasts, and eating swines flesh and luxurious food detrimental to health. God would now have His people adopt the reform dress, not only to distinguish them from the world as His peculiar people, but because a reform in dress is essential to physical and mental health. Gods people have, to a great extent, lost their peculiarity, and have been gradually patterning after the world, and mingling with them, until they have in many respects become like them. This is displeasing to God. He directs them, as He directed the children of Israel anciently, to come out from the world and forsake their idolatrous practices, not following their own hearts (for their hearts are unsanctified) or their own eyes, which have led them to depart from God and to unite with the world.{1T 524.2}[9]
§21
必须有事情发生，以减轻上帝的子民对世界的把持。改良的服装是简单而有益健康的，可是其中有一个十字架。我为这十字架感谢上帝并且高兴地同意背起它。我们已如此与世界联合，以致我们看不到十字架，也不为基督的缘故受苦。{1T 525.1}[10]
§22
Something must arise to lessen the hold of Gods people upon the world. The reform dress is simple and healthful, yet there is a cross in it. I thank God for the cross and cheerfully bow to lift it. We have been so united with the world that we have lost sight of the cross and do not suffer for Christs sake.{1T 525.1}[10]
§23
我们不应想发明什么东西以制造一个十字架；但上帝若是给我们一个十字架，我们就应高兴地背起它。在接受这个十字架时，我们就与世人区别开了。他们不爱我们并且嘲笑我们的独特性。基督曾被世界所恨，因为祂不属世界。跟从祂的人岂可期望比他们的主更好的遭遇吗？我们经过此世若是没有受到世人的责难和反对，就要感到惊慌，因为正是我们效法了世界使我们这么象他们，以致没什么可以激起他们的嫉妒或恶意的事；没有属灵的冲突。世人轻视十字架。“因为十字架的道理，在那灭亡的人为愚拙；在我们得救的人却为上帝的大能”（林前1:18）。“但我断不以别的夸口，只夸我们主耶稣基督的十字架；因这十字架，就我而论，世界已经钉在十字架上；就世界而论，我已经钉在十字架上”（加6:14）。【见附录。】 {1T 525.2}[11]
§24
We should not wish to invent something to make a cross; but if God presents to us a cross, we should cheerfully bear it. In the acceptance of the cross we are distinguished from the world, who love us not and ridicule our peculiarity. Christ was hated by the world because He was not of the world. Can His followers expect to fare better than their Master? If we pass along without receiving censure or frowns from the world we may be alarmed, for it is our conformity to the world which makes us so much like them that there is nothing to arouse their envy or malice; there is no collision of spirits. The world despises the cross. For the preaching of the cross is to them that perish foolishness; but unto us which are saved it is the power of God. 1 Corinthians 1:18. But God forbid that I should glory, save in the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ, by whom the world is crucified unto me, and I unto the world. Galatians 6:14. {1T 525.2}[11]
§25
第525页——关于服装问题，详见《教会证言》卷四，第30辑，《服装的简朴》 {1T 718.4}[12]
§26
【APPENDIX】
§27
PAGE 525--FOR FURTHER EXPLANATION OF THE SUBJECT OF DRESS THE READER IS REFERRED TO TESTIMONIES FOR THE CHURCH, VOL. 4, NO. 30, ARTICLE, SIMPLICITY IN DRESS.{1T 718.4}[12]